Misdirection: The Soul of Sri Lankan Street Food Takes Centre Stage
Marian de Silva
Sri Lankan street food speaks an authentic and flavourful language. Sometimes, it is in the aroma of sambol, sometimes in the crackle of a hot pan, and sometimes, quite simply, in the unmistakable takata takata of kottu. But what happens when those familiar sounds, flavours and memories are given a whole new identity? At Belle Colombo, Chefs Jerome Labrooy and Steve Bennett are taking Sri Lankan street food on a five-act journey with Misdirection, transforming the flavours we grew up with into something unexpected, playful and theatrical, while keeping their soul intact. Joining us in conversation is Chef Jerome Labrooy, who tells us more about the inspiration, memories and creativity behind this delicious experience.
Q1. Misdirection is described as a brunch told in five acts. What was the initial idea behind bringing the energy and familiarity of Sri Lankan street food into an experience like this?
The initial idea came from wanting to capture the rhythm and vibrancy of Sri Lankan street food, the way it is woven into daily life, from morning hoppers to late-night kottu. I wanted to take that energy and familiarity and translate it into a refined, theatrical dining experience, where each act feels like a chapter in a story.
Q2. Sri Lankan street food is so deeply connected to everyday life, memory and culture. What aspects of that experience did you most want to capture through Misdirection?
Street food in Sri Lanka is inseparable from memory, family outings, roadside stalls, the aroma of sambols and curries. With Misdirection, I wanted to bottle that sense of belonging and nostalgia while presenting it in a way that surprises guests but still feels deeply rooted in the culture.
Q3. The concept is built around taking familiar flavours and presenting them in ways guests would never expect. How did you decide which Sri Lankan street food flavours could be reimagined while still retaining their identity?
The decision was guided by identity. I asked myself: which flavours are so unmistakably Sri Lankan that, even when transformed, they remain recognisable? Seeni sambol, pol roti, kottu, these are flavours that carry their own passport. They can be dressed differently, but they never lose their soul.
Q4. The Maalu Paan Doughnut primarily combines barramundi and seeni sambol jam. What inspired this interpretation?
Pairing barramundi with seeni sambol jam was about honouring the humble maalu paan while giving it a playful twist. It reflects my approach: respect the flavour memory, but reframe the form so diners pause, smile and rediscover something they thought they knew.
Q5. The Cannoli brings together curried potato, curry leaf oil, green chilli, lunu miris and coconut sambol. How did you approach translating such distinctly Sri Lankan flavours into this form?
The Cannoli was about contrast, taking curried potato, curry leaf oil, green chilli, lunu miris and coconut sambol and placing them in a vessel no one would expect. The challenge was balance: ensuring the bite still spoke in a Sri Lankan accent, even if the form whispered Italian.
Q6. The Lamington That Lied features foie gras, wattleseed, coconut and Davidson plum. At what point did you realise familiar Sri Lankan flavours could be transformed so dramatically?
This dish was the moment I realised how far the transformation could go. Foie gras, wattleseed, coconut and Davidson plum; it is a collision of worlds. Yet the coconut and plum tether it back to Sri Lankan memory. It showed me that even dramatic reinterpretations can remain authentic if the flavour anchors are strong.
Q7. Act IV brings the Pol Roti Toastie, Kottu Waffle, Mutton Roll Éclair and Devilled Chicken Quesadilla. What was the thinking behind this act?
This act was about joy. These are foods people grew up with, and by reshaping them into unexpected forms, I wanted to spark delight. It is a reminder that food can be playful, mischievous and still deeply respectful of its origins.
Q8. The Kottu Waffle is perhaps one of the clearest examples of Misdirection. How did you approach it?
Kottu is rhythm, it is sound, movement and flavour. Turning it into a waffle was about capturing that familiarity but presenting it in a way that makes diners pause. It is still kottu, but it arrives dressed for brunch theatre.
Q9. Turning a mutton roll into a Mutton Roll Éclair feels particularly playful. How did you decide which elements had to remain?
The spiced mutton filling had to remain true, that is the heartbeat of the dish. The éclair shell provides the misdirection, but the flavour inside ensures the soul of the mutton roll is not lost.
Q10. The final act, The After Brunch, moves into jaggery, coconut, cardamom, rose milk and basil seeds. How important was it to carry that sense of nostalgia through to the end?
It was essential. Ending with jaggery, coconut, cardamom, rose milk and basil seeds was about closing the circle, bringing guests back to the comfort of flavours they know, so the journey feels complete.
Q11. The Ice-Cream Sandwich infused with rose milk, basil seed, jelly, vanilla and pistachio feels nostalgic. Was that intentional?
Absolutely. Rose milk and basil seed are tied to childhood memories. By weaving them into an ice-cream sandwich, I wanted to evoke that personal connection, where food becomes memory.
Q12. When reimagining food people grew up eating, do you think more about the ingredients or the emotions?
Both. Ingredients carry the technical identity, but emotions are what make flavours unforgettable. I think about how a bite might transport someone back to a street corner, a family table or a childhood moment.
Q13. Belle Colombo is the setting for this five-act experience. Why was it the right space?
Belle has a spirit that matches Misdirection. It is intimate yet vibrant, refined yet approachable. The venue's character complements the narrative, allowing the food to tell its story in a space that feels both familiar and elevated.
Q14. What was the biggest creative challenge in translating Sri Lankan street food into a refined, multi-act dining experience?
The biggest creative challenge was balance, retaining the accessibility and soul of street food while layering in refinement and theatre. Street food thrives on informality; translating that into a multi-act dining experience required restraint, respect and a constant reminder not to lose its heartbeat.
Q15. You are sharing this experience with Chef Steve Bennett. What does he bring to Misdirection?
Steve brings a perspective that challenges and enriches the experience. His approach to structure and refinement complements my instinct for flavour and memory. Together, we have created something neither of us could have achieved alone, a true collaboration where misdirection becomes dialogue.
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From the streets of Sri Lanka to the tables of Belle Colombo, Misdirection proves that familiar flavours can take on a whole new form without losing the soul behind them. A huge thank you to Chef Jerome Labrooy for joining us and taking us through the inspiration, memories and creativity behind this unique experience. Want to take a closer look at the flavours behind Misdirection? Scan the QR code to watch our full conversation with Chef Jerome Labrooy. Because sometimes, the best stories are not just told. They are tasted.
