PALMYRAH: A TASTE OF JAFFNA, A TRADITION OF FAMILY
NEXT STOP BY YASHMITHA SRITHERAN
In the heart of Colombo’s bustling Kollupitiya district, Palmyrah Restaurant at Renuka City Hotel has spent five decades bringing the distinctive flavours of Jaffna to the table. Rooted in family recipes, northern culinary traditions and a culture of generous hospitality, the restaurant has become a much-loved destination for diners seeking authentic Sri Lankan cuisine. Following a complete makeover, Palmyrah welcomes guests into a refreshed setting that marks a new chapter in its story. While the surroundings have evolved, the restaurant remains firmly connected to the traditions that shaped its identity, with its food continuing to celebrate the culinary heritage of Sri Lanka’s north.
The story of Palmyrah is inseparable from the Thambiayah family and their ancestral home on Kayts Island in Jaffna. The family patriarch, who founded the hotel and served as a Member of Parliament representing the area, was known for his generous hospitality. His home regularly hosted grand sit-down dinners for as many as a hundred guests, with food at the centre of every gathering. When the family established the restaurant in Colombo, they brought their cooks from Jaffna. Trained under the guidance of Ravi Thambiayah’s aunts, these cooks carried with them the recipes, techniques and attention to detail that had defined the family table. Named after the palmyrah palm, an enduring symbol of the northern landscape, the restaurant became a way of sharing this heritage with a wider audience. That connection continues through the generations. Ravi’s daughters, Arnila and Shibani, take a hands-on interest in the restaurant, overseeing preparations and maintaining the standards that have kept guests returning over the years. Their involvement reflects a personal approach to hospitality, where diners are welcomed with the warmth and generosity traditionally associated with the family home.
At the heart of Palmyrah is its food, which celebrates the bold spices, distinctive ingredients and comforting flavours of Jaffna cuisine. From traditional curries to seafood specialities and freshly prepared hoppers, the menu offers plenty to explore.
Among the dishes worth trying is the Mutton Paal Poriyal, a dry, spiced, slow-cooked meat curry. The seasoning works its way into the tender meat, creating a rich, savoury flavour with a satisfying depth. It is the kind of dish that makes you want another mouthful before you have finished the first. For anyone who enjoys a well-seasoned meat dish, this is certainly one to return to.
The Jaffna Crab Curry is another highlight. Prepared with crab cooked in a traditional Jaffna-style gravy, it brings together the natural sweetness of the seafood and the bold, aromatic flavours of northern spices. The curry has a satisfying intensity without losing the character of the crab. It is a must-try for seafood lovers, particularly those who appreciate a curry with plenty of flavour to savour alongside their rice.
Porichcha Meen Pittu offers a different taste of northern cooking. Made with pittu and fried fish, it combines the gentle richness of grated coconut with the savoury, well-seasoned flavour of fish. The result is comforting and distinctly Sri Lankan, making it an excellent choice for those looking to try something beyond the usual rice and curry combination.
For seafood lovers who enjoy a little heat, Kana Vai Pirettal is another dish worth ordering. The calamari is stir-fried in a dry curry paste, with shallots and chillies adding a punch of flavour. The seasoning gives the dish a savoury, gently fiery finish that keeps each bite interesting. It is a good reminder that Jaffna cuisine is not only about heat, but also about how spices come together to build flavour.
Odiyal Kool completes the five-dish selection with a traditional northern speciality. Prepared using odiyal palmyrah root flour, seafood and spices, this distinctive broth offers an earthy, savoury taste that sets it apart from more familiar soups. It is an experience in itself and a worthwhile choice for anyone curious about Jaffna’s culinary traditions.
No visit to Palmyrah would be complete without trying its hoppers. The restaurant offers egg, milk, plain and jaggery hoppers, each bringing something different to the table. The plain hopper is a classic, with a mild fermented flavour that works beautifully with curries and sambols. The egg hopper adds a richer, savoury element, making it a satisfying choice on its own or alongside a spicy accompaniment.
The milk hopper offers a softer, gentler flavour, with a subtle sweetness that makes it especially comforting. The jaggery hopper, meanwhile, is ideal for those with a sweet tooth, bringing the familiar sweetness of jaggery into a traditional Sri Lankan favourite. All four were enjoyable, and together they made for a particularly good hopper experience. Whether you prefer something savoury or sweet, this is a selection worth trying, and one that would make me want to order hoppers again on a return visit.
Beyond the food, Palmyrah also offers a selection of handcrafted cocktails inspired by local ingredients and contemporary mixology. The Palmyrah Sunset combines dry gin, pineapple, ginger, lime and kithul, balancing fruity sweetness with a gentle warmth from the ginger. Passion Palmyrah pairs arrack with passion fruit, lime and mint, bringing together tropical fruit, citrus and the distinctive character of the local spirit.
The Karapincha Collins offers a more herb-led flavour profile, combining dry gin and lime with karapincha syrup. Other choices include the Jaffna Orchard, made with vodka, apple and lime; Garden Breeze, featuring dry gin, cucumber, citrus and rosemary; and Crimson Lagoon, which combines vodka, cranberry and lime. Together, the selection gives diners a range of options, from fruit-forward combinations to refreshing, herb-infused cocktails.
After five decades, Palmyrah’s appeal lies in its ability to preserve the food and hospitality traditions that have defined it while continuing to evolve. The refreshed interiors provide a welcoming setting, but it is the family legacy and the flavours of Jaffna that remain central to the experience. At Palmyrah, a meal is an invitation to discover a culinary tradition shaped by generations of family cooking. From its signature curries and distinctive northern specialities to its memorable hopper selection and locally inspired cocktails, the restaurant offers plenty of reasons to return. It is a taste of Jaffna that continues to find a home in the heart of Colombo.
