The eight-hour-long drive to Jaffna is worth the journey alone. As you head north, through lush Kurunegala and the historic cities of Dambulla and Anuradhapura, the landscape slowly shifts. Coconut trees become sparse and are replaced with palmyra trees whose fan-shaped leaves rustle in the wind. Soon, you drive through Vavuniya, where buildings thin out and the road stretches out into large empty plains that seem to go on forever.
The first time I made this journey was in 2010, soon after the war had ended. As a child, I remember, the drive felt endless and colourless. The only break from the brown monotony were the red signs, bearing skull and crossbones, indicating that landmines were present. But this time, the drive felt different. There was a vibrancy that may not have been there before. Shrubs had crept across the barren earth, palmyra trees once scarred by bullets had healed, and now a few colourful houses or Hindu shrines, with their candy-cane striped walls, stood tall in the horizon.
I was eager to return to Jaffna after so long, to see what had changed and what had remained. With only a long weekend, I set out with a list of things to do but quickly learned that Jaffna resists being rushed. It is a city best savoured slowly. Still, I managed to see much of what I came for and left with plenty more to save for next time. Here are 15 of the best things to see and do in Jaffna.
Jaffna Fort
Built in 1618 by the Portuguese and later expanded by the Dutch, Jaffna Fort is one of the largest and best-preserved colonial forts in Sri Lanka. The star-shaped structure sits by the lagoon, its stone ramparts still standing tall despite centuries of conflict. While the buildings inside have fallen to ruin, work is being done to renovate some of the buildings with Dutch funding. When I visited, there was also a small exhibition which went into detail about the Fort’s layered history and the buildings that once stood within its compounds. Walking along the ramparts offers sweeping views of the city and the sea–oh, and it’s also a great place for people watching.
The Old Kachcheri
Not too far away from the Fort stands the haunting skeleton of the Old Kachcheri building. Once a Dutch administrative office, it later became the residence of the Government Agent during British rule. Today, its bullet-pocked walls and roofless corridors are a striking reminder of Jaffna’s, or rather Sri Lanka’s, turbulent history. Bo trees now sprout from the building, their roots spreading like tentacles over the weatherbeaten archways and crumbling facades. Although little remains, it is still an evocative site.
Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil
No visit to Jaffna is complete without experiencing Nallur Kovil, by far, Sri Lanka’s most prominent Hindu temple. The Kovil has a history which dates back to 948 CE, and while the temple has gone through many changes over the centuries, its splendour remains. Its golden gopuram (tower) rises high above the city, adorned with hundreds of intricate deities. Inside, the temple is alive with chanting and bells. If you visit in August, during the annual Nallur Festival, the atmosphere is electric and you can experience a spectacular display of devotion, colour, and pageantry.
Jaffna Public Library
It’s hard to talk about the Jaffna Public Library without speaking of its tragic past. Originally built in 1933, it was once one of Asia’s largest libraries, containing over 97,000 books and manuscripts. However, in 1981 the building and its entire collection were burned down; a symbol of the, attempted, erasure of Jaffna’s culture and knowledge. In 2001, the structure was rebuilt and restored, its white facade now shining brightly in the scorching sun. Visiting the library is inspiring and poignant. Despite its gleaming facade and its rooms now filled with books and buzzing with activity, you can’t help but feel a certain sadness that echoes through its quiet halls.
Kadurugoda (Kantarodai) Viharaya
This is one of the few ancient Buddhist sites located in the peninsula. To reach Kadurugoda, you must take a small road to Chunnakam that winds its way through village homes, until you reach this archaeological site. Scattered across the sandy ground and surrounded by palmyra trees, are more than 50 small stupas, dating back to around the 7th century. It is believed that, during the reign of King Devanampiya Tissa, Theri Sangamitta stopped at this temple on her way to Anuradhapura while carrying a sapling of the Sri Maha Bodhi.
Manthiri Manai (The Minister’s Palace)
Located in Nallur, this mysterious building is said to have once been the palace of a minister in the Jaffna Kingdom. Its origins are debated, some believe it dates back to the 15th century, others attribute it to later colonial influences. What remains today is a structure with ornate arches, carvings, and hints of Indo-Saracenic design. Though partially in ruins, Manthiri Manai sparks the imagination, evoking the grandeur of a bygone era.
Kankesanthurai (KKS) Beach
At the northern tip of the peninsula, KKS Beach is one of Jaffna’s most striking stretches of coastline. Here, the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean gently lap against a stretch of powdery soft, white, sandy beach. This beach feels like a world away from the crowded, polished beaches of the south coast– and I mean that in the best way possible. There’s a slow energy to it, and I’m sure you could spend hours floating in its cool, blue waters.
Nagadeepa Island
A short boat ride from the Kurikadduwan jetty takes you to Nagadeepa (Nainativu), one of the most sacred islands off Jaffna. Here two important places of worship stand side by side: the Nagadeepa Purana Viharaya and the Nainativu Nagapooshani Amman Temple. It is believed that the Buddha himself visited the Nagadeepa Viharaya, to settle a dispute between two Naga kings, while the Hindu temple is dedicated to the goddess Parvati. The island draws pilgrims from all faiths, who generally visit both sites. However, a word of warning, the ferry ride is not for the faint of heart as it gets packed with people, and there are only a few, small overhead windows.
Delft Island (Neduntheevu)
A world unto itself, Delft Island lies an hour’s boat ride off the coast. Known for its windswept beauty, Delft is home to wild ponies left behind by the Portuguese, coral walls, and an ancient baobab tree planted by Arab traders centuries ago. The island feels barren yet striking, its history scattered across ruined forts and Dutch colonial buildings. A day trip here is a must if you’re in Jaffna for some time.
Toddy Picking and Tasting
Palmyra palms are to Jaffna what coconut palms are to the south. Toddy tapping is a centuries-old practice that remains alive here. Originally it was a caste-based occupation, but now many people do it, although it takes a lot of skill. You have to scale the trunks barefoot, balancing on makeshift ropes to reach the blossoms. Watching the process is fascinating, but tasting the fresh toddy is even more so: slightly sweet, faintly fizzy, and with a kick that grows stronger the longer it ferments in the hot sun.
Fort Hammenhiel
Floating on the waters between Kayts and Karaitivu islands, Fort Hammenhiel was originally built by the Portuguese, later strengthened by the Dutch, and eventually turned into a prison by the British. Surrounded entirely by the sea, the fort has an almost surreal quality. Today, it has been converted into a boutique hotel and restaurant, where visitors can stay within its historic ramparts and enjoy the views from the different ‘serenity points.’ For those looking for a bit more of a unique experience, you could opt to stay the night in one of the cells.
Keerimalai Hot Springs
Just north of Jaffna, the Keerimalai Springs are famed for their mineral-rich waters, believed to have healing properties. The springs are separated into men’s and women’s bathing pools, fed by a natural underground source that bubbles up beside the sea. Have a dip here or just watch the sunset over the hot spring.
St. Anthony’s Church, Manalkadu
On Jaffna’s eastern coast lies the hauntingly beautiful ruins of St. Anthony’s Church, partly buried by shifting sand dunes. The church's origins are a little murky, but it is believed to have been built by the Dutch. Its half-buried walls, rising starkly out of the sand, create an almost surreal and eerie landscape. After you visit this church, I recommend making the 6km drive to Point Pedro, the northernmost point of Sri Lanka.
Jaffna Archaeological Museum
Tucked away in Nallur, this small but fascinating museum offers insight into Jaffna’s storied history. Its collection ranges from ancient Hindu and Buddhist statues to Dutch-era coins, palm-leaf manuscripts, and intricately carved wooden artefacts. The museum is housed in a colonial-style building with shaded verandas, making it a peaceful stop to understand the peninsula’s diverse cultural heritage.
Jaffna Food & Cookery Demonstrations
Finally, I would be remiss if I didn’t talk about Jaffna’s fiery, flavourful, and unforgettable cuisine. Crab curry, kool (a seafood broth thickened with palmyra flour), and odiyal dishes are must-tries. For a deeper experience, some homestays and guesthouses, such as Catumaran Jaffna, offer cookery demonstrations where you can learn how to prepare these traditional recipes.
Getting to Jaffna may not be the easiest of journeys, but once you arrive, you’ll find yourself in no hurry to leave. The peninsula feels like it’s standing at a threshold; change is coming, and signs of modernity are creeping in, but much of its old-school charm remains intact. Jaffna carries a quiet magic that lingers. It is a place that doesn’t demand to be rushed or consumed, but one that invites you to stay, to savour, and to return.
