A hushed, humid lull blankets the south coast of Sri Lanka during the summer. Traditionally referred to as “off season”, between May and October, this region is viewed with less desirability.
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Most people head to the scorching east coast to the likes of Trincomalee, Passikudah and Arugam Bay, while hotels and restaurants in the south brace for fewer visitors. But that shouldn’t be the case. The “green season,” as it has been rebranded, is arguably the best time to visit the south. Hotels slash their prices, the beaches are empty, and otherwise busy places take on a low-key charm. Of course, the weather may not always live up to the clear blue skies of the “high season”, but it has its own appeal. It rarely rains the whole day, and when it does, it is glorious. Enjoy slow, sunny mornings with a warm, balmy sea breeze, followed by the cool evening rain that fills the air with an earthy sweetness. The green season is a magical time to visit the south, and apart from spending time by the beach, here are some other activities you can enjoy.
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Visit Camp Coconut, Kamburugamuwa
A 10-minute drive from Mirissa, lies Camp Coconut, a small-scale sustainable farm run by Mithra and Maren. During the pandemic, the two lovingly restored Mithra’s ancestral land and transformed it into a flourishing farm. They renovated the 100-year-old walauwa, planted delicious fruit trees, cultivated vegetable patches and even saved several cows. Today, their whole operation is off grid, only using solar power and biogas, which is produced from their cows and the food waste they collect from supermarkets in the area. Camp Coconut hosts farm tours where the couple (along with their very cute daughters) take you through the property, often picking fresh fruits for you to try and herbs to sniff, as you meander through their farm. End a tour with a tasty Sri Lankan farm lunch, straight from farm to table.
For more info: campcoconutsl@gmail.com / campcoconutsl.com
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Dive into a World of Stories at Wild & the Sage, Unawatuna
Tucked away in a quiet corner in Unawatuna is Wild & the Sage, an independent bookshop and cafe. Framed by a tangle of jungle, the white art deco building stands out against its verdant surroundings. The store has been thoughtfully curated by Joe and Giselle, who make sure that there’s a wonderful mix of Sri Lankan and international authors, and that there’s a book for everyone. Lose track of time as you wander from shelf to shelf, or sip on a coffee and flip through a book in one of their cozy little reading nooks. You will inevitably find yourself at their garden cafe, which feels like a tropical wonderland. Ivy and moss grow thick on the walls, and large swaying trees shade the cafe – providing the perfect backdrop for their book club which takes place on the last Sunday of every month.
For more info:
hello@wildandthesage.com / wildandthesage.com
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Book a Session with Sarana, Ahangama
When people visit the south coast, not too much consideration is given to the region’s rich cultural practices and history. Instead, most visitors come here for the beach and save the culture when they go elsewhere. However, Sarana, a community space, is changing things up. Sarana partnered with local artisans, healers and tradition keepers to host workshops in and around Ahangama. Their calendar is always chock-full of exciting events. This month they’re hosting pottery (matti), batik, and indigenous medicine (hela wedakama) workshops, they also offer traditional Sri Lankan drumming classes and a course on cane weaving (wewal). Each workshop only has six people, so you’re sure to have an intimate and in-depth experience, but you can also book a private session with them
For more info: follow @saranasrilanka on Instagram
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Spend the Day (and Night) at Dots Bay House, Hiriketiya
It is a truth universally known that if you ever end up in the idyllic town of Hiriketiya, all roads inevitably lead to Dots. This Hiri institution needs no introduction; in fact, Dots is probably synonymous with the town itself. Nawodh and the whole Dots team have done an incredible job of keeping a well-planned events calendar throughout the year. Whether it's Yin yoga and a relaxing sound bath or a shopping spree at their concept store, followed by listening to a fantastic musical lineup, Dots does it all. Rain or shine, you’ll never be bored at Dots Bay House.
For more info:
follow @dotsbayhouse on Instagram
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Let the Kids Play at The Garden House, Unawatuna
With the summer holidays underway and you’re running out of ways to keep the little ones entertained, visit The Garden House (TGH) cafe in Unawatuna. Set in a large rambling garden, this is a wonderful place for kids and adults to disconnect. TGH has a wonderful outdoor play area with a jungle gym, a pond, a tree house, countless toys and even a zipline! Don’t worry if it starts raining, they also have an indoor play area brimming with toys. They currently have special rates for the green season, and they regularly host activities for the kids, like karate and cookery workshops. Kids can literally run wild here, while the parents can enjoy some of the cafe’s delicious food.
For more info:
thegardenhouse.lk / follow @kidsplay.at.tgh on Instagram
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Paint Devil Masks at the Galle Fort Art Gallery, Galle
A visit to an art gallery is always a welcome treat, but the Galle Fort Art Gallery is exceptional. Located on the cobblestone Leyn Baan Street of Galle Fort, the building itself is a work of art. An old merchant’s house, this split-level gallery showcases traditional pieces from local artisans and contemporary work from leading artists. The gallery frequently has different exhibitions but also holds a kolam mask workshop. Hosted by Janaka De Silva, the owner and curator of the gallery, he will take you through the history behind and the cultural significance of devil masks in Sri Lanka. You can opt for either a mask carving or a mask painting session, depending on your mood.
For more info:
info@thegallefortartgallery.com / +9477 791 4288
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Get Philosophical at O! Yummy, Ahangama
If you’re riddled with existential angst or want to find the deeper meaning of life, head to O! Yummy. This Lebanese restaurant, with its charming, sun-dappled garden, serves some delicious Middle Eastern food and hosts regular Philosophy Nights. I must admit, I’ve never gone for one of these events, but the restaurant is nestled inland, away from the crowded Ahangama strip, so it feels like a peaceful haven amidst the chaos.
For more info:
follow @oyummy.ahangama on Instagram
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Yoga and Movie Nights at Salt House, Hiriketiya
Salt House Hiriketiya is one of those places where you feel relaxed as soon as you step through its big wooden doors and into a lush tropical garden. Only a stone’s throw away from the bay, this B&B has everything you’d need for a comfortable stay in Hiri. Throughout the year they offer daily yoga sessions, usually three classes a day, in their breezy open-air shala. Recently, they’ve also started hosting movie nights three times a week, which is a great way to pass the time once the evening rains roll in.
For more info:
follow @salthouse_srilanka on Instagram
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It’s encouraging to see more people move away from outdated ideas of “peak season” and “off season”. Sri Lanka is a year-round destination; our island is always kissed by the sun, the water is always warm, and the fruit is always sweet. We're a tropical island that was never meant to be defined by seasons, so, head to the south coast and discover the very best our island has to over – there’s never been a better time.
photo credits:
@oyummy.ahangama via Instagram, @kidsplay.at.tgh via Instagram