High in the misty hills of northern Taiwan lies a village that feels as though it were pulled straight from a dream or perhaps from the pages of a Studio Ghibli film. Narrow alleyways wind through mountainside buildings; red lanterns sway above cobbled paths, casting a warm glow over tea houses, dumpling stalls, and curio shops.
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The scent of oolong tea and grilled squid mingles with mountain air as visitors peer out at the sea through breaks in the clouds. This is Jiufen, Taiwan’s “village in the sky,” a place of magic, memory, and mystery. Far more than a quaint tourist town, Jiufen is a window into Taiwan’s rich history, folklore, and cinematic legacy. For the curious traveler, it offers more than sightseeing it offers immersion. And once you’ve walked its lantern-lit lanes, it’s a place you’ll carry with you forever.
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A Glimpse into Time
Jiufen, which literally means “nine portions,” was named during the Qing Dynasty when nine families lived in the isolated village. Because of the difficulty in accessing supplies, they would request nine portions of everything, hence the name. But this sleepy mountainside village was about to awaken. In 1893, Jiufen was thrust into the limelight with the discovery of gold in its surrounding hills. What followed was a gold rush that transformed the tiny settlement into a booming mining town. For nearly half a century, it bustled with miners, merchants, and the occasional dreamer hoping to strike it rich. Remnants of that era rusted mining carts, old rail tracks, and colonial architecture still echo through Jiufen’s narrow streets. But as the gold dried up, so did the population. By the 1970s, Jiufen was nearly forgotten until art and cinema breathed new life into it.
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From Forgotten to Famous: The Ghibli Connection
If Jiufen looks strangely familiar to visitors from around the world, it's because it’s often associated with Studio Ghibli’s beloved film, Spirited Away. Though Hayao Miyazaki has never officially confirmed Jiufen as his inspiration, the similarities are uncanny: the glowing lanterns, winding staircases, towering bathhouses, and hidden alleys all bear a striking resemblance to the otherworldly world Chihiro finds herself in. This accidental connection turned Jiufen into a pilgrimage site for Ghibli fans. But it’s not just anime lovers who are enchanted. Filmmakers, writers, and photographers come in droves to capture its aesthetic. Every corner looks like a painting; every moment feels cinematic.
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To explore Jiufen is to dive into a sea of sensory experiences. The beating heart of the village is Jiufen Old Street, a labyrinthine walkway lined with stalls and shops selling everything from bubble tea and peanut ice cream rolls to ornate paper lanterns and vintage postcards. As you make your way through the crowds, your nose will guide you. There’s the sweet steam of taro balls, the bold tang of stinky tofu (a local delicacy you either love or fear), and the savory comfort of braised pork rice. Don’t miss the fish ball soup at one of the many family-run eateries it’s the kind of soul food that tastes like a grandmother’s hug.
Stop at a tea house, preferably one with a balcony view. One of the most iconic is A-Mei Tea House, perched dramatically over the hillside. With its red lanterns and wooden façade, it’s said to have directly inspired Spirited Away’s bathhouse. Here, you can take part in an elaborate Taiwanese tea ceremony while soaking in panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean and Keelung Mountain.
If you want to dig a little deeper into Jiufen’s past, head to nearby Jinguashi, home to the Gold Museum. The museum not only showcases the tools and tales of Taiwan’s gold mining era but also includes somber exhibits about the Japanese occupation and the use of forced labor during World War II. One of the highlights is the opportunity to touch a massive 220 kg gold brick the largest in Taiwan. They even let you try lifting it (spoiler: you won’t).
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Jiufen is steeped in folklore. Locals tell tales of ghosts lingering from the mining days, of hidden spirits that inhabit the fog, and of fortune-tellers who once predicted the rise and fall of the village. It’s easy to believe in magic when you're here. At dusk, as mist creeps down from the mountains and lanterns begin to glow, Jiufen takes on a dreamlike quality. The line between real and imagined blurs. You can almost hear the faint echoes of miners’ footsteps or the rustle of a spirit passing by in the mist. One thing you must prepare for in Jiufen is rain. It rains here a lot. But don’t let that discourage you. In fact, the rain is part of what makes Jiufen so mystical. Raindrops patter gently on tiled roofs, the fog thickens, and the streets shine with reflections of lantern light. It’s cozy, intimate, and deeply romantic. Bring a good umbrella and a better sense of wonder.
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How to Get There
Getting to Jiufen is part of the fun. From Taipei, it’s a scenic 1.5-hour journey. Take a train to Ruifang Station, then a short bus or taxi ride up the mountain. If you’re feeling adventurous, rent a scooter for a more thrilling (and foggy) ascent. Once there, wear good walking shoes Jiufen is a vertical town, and you’ll be climbing a lot of steps.
Jiufen doesn’t offer high-adrenaline adventures or flashy modern attractions. What it offers is atmosphere. It’s a place that feels suspended in time a bridge between Taiwan’s past and its present, between history and imagination, between the earthly and the ethereal. It’s the kind of place where you can lose yourself and feel all the better for it. One moment you’re sipping tea overlooking the sea, the next you’re peeking into a quiet shrine tucked between alleyways. Each corner reveals a new scene, a new story.
Long after you leave Jiufen, it stays with you. Perhaps it’s the way the lanterns glowed in the rain, or the warmth of a teacup in your hands as the mist rolled in. Maybe it’s the faces of the shopkeepers, still living their lives in the slow rhythm of the mountains. Or maybe it’s something deeper something unnamable that makes Jiufen feel like a place not just in Taiwan, but between worlds. If you ever find yourself longing for a place where the veil between the real and the magical feels just a little thinner head to Jiufen. Lose yourself in its misty alleys, listen for the whispers of the past, and you might just find a piece of yourself waiting in that village in the sky.
